Tuesday 31 January 2023

31 January 1953

 

On this day, 70 years ago, a violent storm blew across Western Europe. It claimed 130 lives when a car ferry, the MV Princess Victoria, was sunk on passage between Stranraer in Scotland and Larne in Northern Ireland. Its bow doors were smashed by a huge wave, causing flooding of the cardeck and the sinking of the vessel. 

Further north, the MV Clan MacQuarrie was blown ashore on the west coast of the Isle of Lewis near the village of Borve. Amidst atrocious conditions, the Coastguard managed to take all 66 crew ashore, safe and well, as well as the ship's cat. The crew were put up in the village and in the town of Stornoway, 15 miles away. The event is commemorated in a community hall in Borve; the original hall, replaced in 2009, was put up with funds from the shipping company. 

The storm caused a massive storm surge in the south of the North Sea, pushing waterlevels to 15 feet above normal. This breached sea defences in the east of England, from Hunstanton in Norfolk to Canvey Island in the Thames Estuary. Dozens of people were lost in many villages, 49 in Canvey, with the total death toll reaching 307. 

The same storm surge breached the dykes in the southwest of the Netherlands, causing extensive flooding and loss of life. The death toll reached 1,836, not to mention the tens of thousands of head of cattle that were drowned. 

A friend of mine, who lived in Barvas, 4 miles south of Borve, told me the story that the water tank in the village was blown off its pedestal. A window in their house was blown in as well through the force of the winds.

Friday 27 January 2023

Holocaust Memorial Day

A pile of shoes
that walked their owners to their deaths

A stack of spectacles
that looked death in the eye

Shelves full of travel cases
that journeyed to the bitter end

Piles of hair
shorn off at the place of death

A length of railway track
that was the end of the line of life

An ominous gatehouse
and that cynical slogan

The Third Empire
lasted a dozen years

A dozen years it would take
to read the six million names of the Dead

Who are dead only
because in life they were deemed undesirable

A horror of circumstance
contrived and contributed to their end

We must never forget

Holocaust Memorial Day - 2023

 
Today it is 78 years ago since the infamous Auschwitz-Birkenau concentration camp was liberated by Soviet forces. More than a million people, mainly Jews, were killed there during the Second World War. The process was conducted as an industrial process. To date, some of the goods left behind by the victims of the Holocaust remain on display. These include suitcases with name tags, spectacle frames, hair and shoes. I have never visited Auschwitz and am not likely to.

January 27th is Holocaust Memorial Day, remembering all the victims of the Nazi's policy of extermination of all those they considered to be sub-human.

Holocaust Memorial Day remembers all victims of genocide.

We must never forget.

Sunday 15 January 2023

Sunday walk

Today was a very cold and snowy day, but I nonetheless ventured out for an amble. The cold was made more noticeable by a northerly breeze, so the Lews Castle Grounds was a good option - it offers plenty of shelter. I crossed over Strawberry Hill, which is quite exposed, but did so during a lull in the snow showers. Returned to town at 4pm, just as darkness was falling. 

P1152402 P1152399 P1152388 P1152384 P1152380 P1152378 P1152374

Wednesday 11 January 2023

11 January 2005

Eighteen years ago today, a violent storm struck the Outer Hebrides. Gusts reached 134 mph or 216 km/h at Castlebay, and 100 mph or 160 km/h in Stornoway. As darkness fell, after 4 o'clock, hapless pedestrians in the centre of Stornoway struggled to make headway along the streets, but some hostelries would not open their doors to them. If memory serves, one or two people sustained injuries. 

At the time, I was staying in Cearsiadar, a hamlet 10 miles south of Stornoway as the gull flies, 22 miles by road. The power went off at 6.20pm, and did not come back on for 48 hours. At Sildenis, a few miles west of Ciarsiadar, the electricity remained offline for six days. I watched across Loch Erisort, hidden in the darkness, as flashing blue lights emerged on the main Stornoway to Tarbert road. A busdriver, heading for the district of South Lochs, reported a sheep flying past his windscreen at Laxay. The police thereupon closed the road. The night was filled with the sound of the wind roaring, although the silence on the radiowaves was deafening and scary. Only the signal of BBC Radio Scotland on 810 kHz, mediumwave, continued. The island based transmitters all went offline because electricity pylons, feeding power from Harris north to Lewis, were blown down like so many matchsticks. Even the main site at Eitsal, outside the village of Achmore, was not functioning. Roofs were blown off buildings, a line of trees in Balallan was flattened. Trees in the Lews Castle Grounds at Stornoway fell down, some blocking the main road into town from the south. For many days afterwards, the Grounds had to be closed to walkers out of concern for their safety. 

A lot of damage, a lot of inconvenience. When I was finally able to travel into town on the 13th, people were relieved, as it could have been so much worse. Well, it actually was worse than damage and inconvenience. 

Word began to seep out of the Southern Isles that five members of one family had been reported missing the morning after the storm. They had set off from their home in Lionacuidhe, South Uist, for Benbecula. They fled in terror at the wind, the pebbles being hurled against the windows and walls and the fearing encroachment by the sea nearby. I know the road they travelled, I drove down it one July evening four years later. The road runs parallel to the South Ford, which separates South Uist and Benbecula. To the south lies the large inland Loch Bì. That night, the stormforce winds blew the waters of the loch northwards, until they met the outflow under the road linking Lionacuidhe and Iochdar. It is only a narrow culvert, and the loch is large. The road runs on eastwards until it meets the main spinal route through Uist, the A865, which crosses the South Ford via a causeway, a solid barrier with only a few culverts to allow the flowing of the tides. That night, the tide rose through the channel and met the barrier, and combined with the flood from Loch Bì to cause a stormsurge which swept across the road from Lionacuidhe. It swept away the two cars carrying the family of five, a grandfather, his daughter and son-in-law, and the younger couple's young children. They were all eventually found on the shores of the South Ford, their lives claimed by the storm. 

In my 18 years in the Outer Hebrides, I have experienced many gales and storms. The storm of January 11th, 2005, remains vivid in my memory, haunted by the images of the two young children as they smile out of the BBC news item that reported their demise. I cannot bear to post the actual images in this blogpost.

Thursday 5 January 2023

A long, lonely road

Going through my archives, I came across this roadsign, since replaced, in the depths of eastern Russia. It says enough about the vastness of that country. I shall translate the writing, which is in cyrillic script. We're 1174 km or 730 miles west of the port of Khabarovsk on the Pacific Ocean. This is where the M56 highway branches off the Trans-Siberian Highway. The two towns mentioned are Yakutsk (a trifling 1,056 km / 656 miles distant) and Magadan (3,177 km / 1,974 miles) away. The road is known as the Road of Bones, built by prisoners held in Stalin's gulags, who would often succumb to the extreme conditions. In winter, the thermometer is known to plummet to below -70C in some locations. The Road of Bones is not the nice, pristine highway you see veering off at this junction. In places, it is only passable in winter. Magadan is not the furthest point east in Russia. The country carries on another 2,000 km or 1200 miles before finding its end at Lavrentia. A mere 45 miles further east across the Bering Strait lies Alaska. 
Although we all revile Putin, do not forget that he is only one man in a vast country... Much can happen yet.

Monday 2 January 2023

Happy New Year

 The year 2023 has arrived. Let us hope that it will be more positive than 2022 turned out to be. However, the same was hoped for at the start of 2020, 2021 and 2022. With all the turmoil that wracked the world over the past three years, we shall just have to take things as they come. 

The war in Ukraine will probably drag on, with Putin having dug himself into a position which can best be described as Death or Victory. 

Covid seems to be making a resurgence in China, and several countries are requiring tests from travellers from that nation. Don't for one minute think that coronavirus has gone away. It is still here, and if you've been vaccinated, count yourself lucky.